N°141 ∙ Drawstring Skirt ∙ $293.00
This skirt is by our special guest designer Laura Gardner, publisher of periodical Mode and Mode, an enquiry into printed matter in fashion practice. It is made from pure silk with a slit which can be worn on both from or back. It comes in one size only but can fit on a variety of body shapes as it tightens with a drawstring.
A special feature of this skirt are the two pockets, detailing the overlooked function of pockets today, here Laura writes:
Pockets became a feature of men’s clothing in the late-seventeenth century, sewn into the linings of their coats, waistcoats and breeches. Until then, personal effects were carried by small pouches and bags. For women, however, garments remained pocketless. Instead, accessory pockets were tied into outfits, usually under their petticoats or underclothing, and reached through openings in the side seams of their outergarments. From the mid- to late-nineteenth century, the placement of pockets changed as did the role of women in modern society. From the turn of the century, the form and silhouette of womenswear becomes more functional, and pockets were included in dress patterns, and American sportswear designers celebrated the pocket in their ready-to-wear designs. Pockets were also important project for Constructivist and Futurist designers and artists that created radically practical clothing as part of a campaign to thwart the capitalist system.
In popular culture, the term livre de poche, pocket book, came to prominence when publisher Robert de Graaf, partnering with Simon & Schuster, created the Pocket Books imprint, the first line of mass-market, pocket-sized paperback books in 1939.